Part 1: Painting Models

Painting Models Made Easy – Part 1: Tips & Techniques for Beginners and Advanced Modelers

Discover step-by-step guides and practical advice to paint your miniature models with realistic detail and precision. Perfect for model railway and scale model enthusiasts who want to improve the appearance of their figures and vehicles in 1:160, 1:120, 1:220 and 1:87 scale. Learn new techniques and take your modelling projects to the next level with Panzer-Shop.nl.

Hello everyone, and welcome to my online painting workshop!

My name is Kevin, founder of Panzer-Shop.nl, and today I will show you how I paint our models. At every step, I will mention the materials I use so you can easily find them yourself. In this workshop I use water-based paints, but enamel paints can also be used. I apply the base colours with an airbrush, although everything shown here can also be done with a regular paintbrush.

For this workshop, I will be painting a “MAN KAT1A1 10t 8x8 Patriot Missile MIM-104 SAM” in 1:160 N scale. This is a Panzer-Shop Minitanks Bundeswehr vehicle with a camouflage paint scheme. An NVA vehicle, for example, is often easier because it only requires a green base coat and a few painted details, saving several steps. However, I want to demonstrate the complete process so that everyone can benefit from it.

Please keep in mind that none of these methods are set in stone. If you prefer different techniques or materials, that is perfectly fine. I am simply showing the methods and products that work best for me.

Step 1: The Base Coat

For this step, I use Vallejo 71.093 “NATO Green”. As an alternative, you could use Revell 36165 “Bronze Green”, for example. In this case, I do not use a primer, as our models can often be painted very well without one. The resin used for our models works exceptionally well with paint and naturally provides good adhesion. As long as the model is properly free of grease and residue (if necessary, it can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol), paint adhesion is usually not an issue.

Depending on the paint you are using, you may want to apply a primer first. If you plan to paint the model entirely by hand with a brush, I strongly recommend using a primer to achieve the best possible paint coverage and a smoother finish.

And just like that, we have a green model. This step is not particularly exciting, nor is it difficult. Simply load up your airbrush and apply an even coat of paint across the entire model.

Paint Suggestions:

*This paint may be available from this supplier; however, we cannot confirm this.

Step 2: Camouflage Colours

For the camouflage pattern, I use Revell Aqua Color 36106 “Tar Black” and 36184 “Leather Brown”. These colours are available from several manufacturers, and the choice ultimately depends on your personal preference. The colour combination shown here is accurate for vehicles used by both the Bundeswehr and the Royal Netherlands Army, and it produces excellent results.

It is very important to thin these paints with a suitable thinner. For Revell Aqua Color paints, you can use “Aqua Color Mix” or simply water. Do not thin the paint too much; the consistency should be slightly thicker than milk. Achieving the correct paint consistency is crucial. If the paint is too thin, coverage will suffer. If it is too thick, fine details may become obscured beneath the paint layer.

The most important thing during this step is to keep your hands as steady as possible so you can paint clean lines exactly where you want them. The best way to achieve this is by creating as many points of contact as possible between yourself and a stable surface, such as your workbench or table.

Take a look at the photo above. Both of my palms are resting on the table, as is the rear of the model. My left little finger and ring finger are always in contact with the table, and whenever possible, my right little finger is as well. You can also see that I am touching the model with the ring finger of my right hand, ensuring that everything remains connected.

This setup provides a great deal of stability and allows your hands and the model to move together as one unit, making it much easier to paint precise and controlled lines.

Once the outlines have been completed, we can begin filling in the black camouflage areas. The advantage of painting the outlines first is that it helps create clean, sharp edges and gives you greater control over the final appearance of the camouflage pattern.

Of course, if you find outlining too time-consuming, you can paint the entire area in one step instead. The choice largely depends on your preferred painting style and the level of detail you wish to achieve.

After completing the black sections, simply repeat the same process with the brown camouflage colour.

Step 3: Tires and detailing

Next, we move on to the tyres. For this step, I use Vallejo 70.995 “German Grey”. It is my preferred colour for painting tyres and produces a realistic appearance without looking too dark or overly black.

As before, the paint should be thinned with a suitable thinner. In this case, I use slightly less thinner than I did for the camouflage colours. A somewhat thicker consistency is often preferable, as it prevents the paint from flowing too easily and helps maintain better control when painting the tyre details.

Once again, try to create as many points of support as possible between your hands, the table, and the model itself. Hold the model in a comfortable position that allows you to work without straining your hands or wrists.

For painting the tyres, it is often easiest to make small downward semicircular brush strokes. Since the lower part of the wheel is clearly visible from your position, paint towards yourself rather than away from yourself. Rotate and position the model in whatever way feels most comfortable to you. This approach makes it much easier to paint neatly around the wheel rims with a high level of accuracy.

The same technique can also be used for other small details such as shovels, tracks, tools, and various accessories. And don’t forget to paint the spare wheel as well!

Step 4: Lights

For the lights, I use Vallejo 70.908 “Carmine Red”, 70.911 “Light Orange”, and 70.883 “Silver Grey”. These colours work very well for creating realistic taillights, indicators, and headlights on small-scale vehicles.

For this step, I do not thin the paint. Using it straight from the bottle provides better coverage and makes it easier to apply small amounts of paint precisely to the light details.

Place a small drop of paint onto your palette and take a wooden toothpick. Dip just the very tip of the toothpick into the paint, then carefully place it onto the model at a 90-degree angle.

Hold it in place for about one second before lifting it away. This leaves behind a perfectly round dot, as you are effectively transferring a tiny drop of paint directly onto the model. This technique works exceptionally well for small lights and other fine details.

If you are painting a rectangular light unit, gently drag the toothpick from left to right after making contact with the surface. This will create a more rectangular shape instead of a circular dot.

If any edges are not quite right, you can use the clean, dry end of the toothpick to carefully remove excess paint and refine the shape before it dries.

And that's it! Your model is now painted.

From here, you can add decals, windows, and perhaps some weathering effects to enhance the final appearance even further. If you plan to apply a clear coat, it is best to add the decals first and then seal everything with the clear varnish. When using Microscale Kristal Klear for glazing, make sure to apply the clear coat before creating the windows.

I hope you found this workshop helpful and that it gives you the confidence to start painting your own models. Thank you for following along, and I hope to see you again in the next how-to guide!

Kevin Boogaard
Founder of Panzer-Shop.nl